Celebrating the Holidays with Citra Wines of Abruzzo
When people usually think of the Tuscany wine region, their minds usually go to Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino on the Western side of the Apennine Mountains running down the spine of Italy.
However, Tuscany also has a number of wine regions on the other side of the Apennines focused on indigenous grape varieties that I’m predicting will grow substantially in the next year due to their accessibility and potential for quality and character.
This December, I was invited to a holiday lunch and tasting at the gorgeous restaurant, Mamo, in Soho, New York City with Citra, the largest cooperative association in Abruzzo, to learn about the wines of this region.
Here is a short recap of the wines of Abruzzo and why you should consider Abruzzo when hosting your next holiday feast.
Location and Terroir of Abruzzo
As noted above, Abruzzo is located on the eastern side of Italy, a two hours’ drive from Rome. The region stretches from the eastern hillsides of the Apennine mountains to the coastal plains of the Adriatic Sea and is situated in between Puglia to the south and Marche to the north.
The defining feature of this wine region is the multitude of microclimates. Not only does the region cover the warm coastal lands along the Adriatic Sea, but it also extends inland into the mountainous, hilly sites that make up over 65% of the region. The magnitude of the impact of these mountains and hills cannot be overstated, as over 50% of the Abruzzo region is comprised of national parks and UNESCO sites, and Abruzzo is the location of Gran Sasso, which includes some of the highest peaks in Italy outside of the Italian Alps. For wine lovers who are also into nature and hiking, Abruzzo sounds like the perfect place to visit!
The coastal area comprises flat, fertile lands with a warm, Mediterranean climate, while the hilly inland region is more continental, with poorer soils and cooler temperatures, which results in higher retention of acidity in the grapes. In addition, due to the number of hills in the region, the sites have varying aspects of sun exposure and soil types within the same area. The abundance of microclimates within the region provides producers with the ability to make distinct wines of different quality levels and expressions of the major native grapes of the region, including the dominant gape of the region, Montepulciano.
Montepulciano, the King of Abruzzo
Montepulciano rules the region with over 50% of plantings. The grape has a high level of anthocyanins, which gives the wines a deep ruby color, and it contains naturally high tannins. The wines tend to be made in a range of different styles from medium intensity, unoaked wines with unobtrusive tannins to deeper, more pronounced and structured wines.
Three different quality levels for Montepulciano can be found in Abruzzo:
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC: Required to be grown in hilly sites; highest maximum permitted yield at 98 hl/ha
Five official sub-zones of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Alto Tirino, Casauria, Teate, Terre dei Peligni and Terre dei Vestini): Lower maximum permitted yields at 66 hl/ha; minimum ageing of 18 months, with nine months in wood
Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG: Same maximum permitted yields as the above sub-zones at 66 hl/ha; minimum ageing for two years, with one year in wood
In addition, Riserva wines are required to be aged for at least three years prior to release, with at least six months in wooden containers.
The broad range of styles and quality options makes Montepulciano d’Abruzzo an excellent candidate to consider for pairing with multi-coursed meals. Further, the wine has one of the highest quality per price ratio for red wines, as the DOCG wines are most often priced between $23 and $50 US Dollars. A solid option for hosting large holiday gatherings in a tough economy!
The White Wines of Abruzzo
The major white wines of Abruzzo come from (in descending order): Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano Abruzzese (yes, different from the former), Chardonnay and Pecorino. The dominant white wine, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC may be made by either or both Trebbiano Toscano and Trebbiano Abruzzese, and the wines are typically high in acid, fresh and fruity.
Trebbiano Toscano often carries a harsh reputation due to historically high yields, which resulted in diluted flavors, but it is also an important variety for the Italian wine industry as the #2 most planted white grape in Italy after Pinot Grigio. Further, it is the same grape as Ugni Blanc in France, which is the #1 most planted grape in France for its use in Cognac and Armagnac production.
As for Pecorino, it is the rising star of Tuscany in both Abruzzo and the neighboring region of Marche. It has naturally high acidity and high sugar content (which results in higher alcohol content when vinified dry), and it tends to give herbal and fresh orchard fruit flavors. Until the 1980s, Pecorino was thought to be extinct, but over the past 40 years, the variety has been growing in popularity with single-varietal bottlings as producers discover its versatility. One of my other theories for its growing popularity is that the name, Pecorino, is so darn cute! Note, however, that the name Pecorino for the wine refers to “little sheep,” supposedly for the sheep that snacked on the grapes on the vines, and not the Pecorino cheese.
Cerasuolo, My Prediction for the Next Trending Rosé of 2023
Pale, soft pink Provençal rosés have been all the rage for the last few years, but with the exploding popularity of the “chilled red” wine category in the United States, I’m predicting a corresponding rise in the consumer appetite for deeper, more tannic and weighty rosés in 2023. A perfect option for this category? Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC is a dry rosé wine composed of a minimum of 85% of the Montepulciano variety. The name Cerasuolo (pronounced “cherra-soo-olo”) refers to the cherry color in Italian, as the wines are typically medium to deep pink due to the naturally high level of anthocyanins in the Montepulciano grape. The rosés tend to have refreshing medium+ acidity, with noticeable weight and body to add gravitas to the wines, and a slightly savory quality to them.
These wines are great options for red wine lovers who are venturing out into the rosé space or for those who are seeking the texture and weight of a red wine but are looking for a lighter, more refreshing alternative on a summer day. Given the fact that this wine exhibits the qualities of both rosé wines and red wines, Cerasuolo is a versatile, year-round option for all kinds of wine drinkers.
Citra, the Largest Cooperative in Abruzzo
Seventy-five percent of Abruzzo’s wine is produced by cooperatives, and Citra represents the largest of the cooperatives in Abruzzo, with 3,000 member families, nine wineries and 22 oenologists and agronomists on staff. It is the effective pooling of these vast resources and production knowledge that makes Citra wines such great value wines for consumers. In addition, with the ability to source grapes from 6,000 hectares of vineyards across the region, Citra produces a range of varietal wines at different price and quality levels, including a line of organic and vegan wines.
Pairing Citra Wines with Italian Dishes
At our lunch, we were treated to a tasting of the following five wines:
Bisanzio Trebbiano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. 2021
Ferzo Pecorino Abruzzo D.O.C. Superiore 2021
Bisanzio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo D.O.C. 2021
Ferzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. Riserva 2019
Laus Vitae Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. Riserva 2016
to accompany some hearty Italian fare to warm up the soul on a cold winter day:
Caprese (heirloom tomatoes, mozzarella, basil)
Vegetable Salad (farro, buffalo mozzarella, avocado)
Eggplant “parmigiana” style
Fried artichokes, pecorino, black pepper
Cacio & Pepe (fresh Calabrian maccheroni, cheese, black pepper, lemon, sage)
Rigatoni all Bolognese
Absolutely delicious Tiramisu
As it turns out, there was a wine for every kind of dish on the table.
We began our lunch with a welcome glass of the Cerasuolo, which was bright with fresh strawberry and red cherry flavors, a soft mouthfeel and a medium+ body. We returned to the Cerasuolo a few times during the meal, and while it was pleasant on its own as an apertivo, it also worked well with practically all of the dishes before we arrived at the meat-heavy pastas.
The fresh, high acidity of the Trebbiano was an easy accompaniment to the fried artichokes, and the herbal, fresh lemon notes worked complementarily with the basil flavors and the acidity in the tomatoes in the caprese. Many remarks were made around the table at how Trebbiano would be a solid alternative to a Sauvignon Blanc at the table.
The Pecorino was more muted on the nose than the Trebbiano, but the wine felt creamy on the palate and was full of character with distinct flavors of cream, almond, white peach and lemon wax and an impressive finish. Surprisingly, the creamy texture made the wine pair the best with the cacio e pepe, which happened to contain Pecorino, the cheese! They say “what grows together, goes together” but maybe it’s also “what’s named together, goes together”?
Lastly, we tried two different styles of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the Ferzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. Riserva 2019, which was more ripe and fruity with deep plum and raspberry flavors and more modern in style due to the noticeable oak flavors, and the Laus Vitae Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. Riserva 2016, which was more restrained and savory with recognizable Tuscan flavors of sour cherry and dried herbs. My favorite out of the two was the classic Laus Vitae, which was a bullseye pairing with the Bolognese pasta with the stewed tomatoes.
Happy Holidays!
What a fantastic way to end 2022! Writing about wine has been a longtime goal for me, and to be able to explore good food and wine in the company of other writers and wine professionals and to share these experiences with you all this year has been a dream come true. Cin cin and happy holidays from your NYC wine bloggers!
